The last few weeks, I’ve struggled with writing an informative post on Sierra Leone. I didn’t want to another “ah, I’m in a rut, not in a rut, going to the beach, eating good food,” rant about life here, so here’s a list: most enjoyable, most surprising, most difficult aspects of my time here so far (I think I passed the halfway mark over a week ago, but we’ll call it the halfway point anyway). Enjoy, and keeping asking great questions!
Most delicious meal:
Aminata’s dinner: My colleague Aminata had me over at her house for dinner in September. What she cooked was an amazing, traditional meal of – you guessed it – fish, rice, and stew. I can’t quite put my finger on what was so enchanting about this meal, but I remember not being able to stop eating. She and her fiancé got a kick out of it!
Close runner-up: Meal at Mbalus place, Chicken Biryani from my auntie and uncle’s (Indian couple who adopted me as their Guju –Sierra Leone family member and had me over for dinner, mmmm homemade Indian food), and Sushi at this restaurant called Mamba Point. It’s some of the best sushi I’ve ever tried, and coming from the Bay Area, I think that says a lot (we’re spoiled by amazing international cuisine). J
Most generous company:
Mbalu: This speaks for itself. She’s done a ton for me, and we’re like 2 peas in a pod. I’m so thankful to have met someone like her, and work alongside her every day.
Indian couple in the supermarket: The uncle and auntie mentioned above. They invite me over for dinner, to other events and functions, and treat me like their own family. They even let me come over to bum on their couch and watch English and Hindi television. Wow.
Wissam: My first friend in Sierra Leone, he took me under his wing since day one and has introduced me to the coolest expats I know! Not to mention, he was my major source or transportation in my first month, always going out of his way to pick me up and take me around with him to places like Bureh Beach and dinner on Wilkinson Road.
Most memorable experience:
Frisbee on the beach: 2 weeks ago, some colleagues and I went to Tokeh beach. After an adventurous journey getting there (more below), we arrived at the beautiful beach. The place was empty with visitors but packed with kids from the local village. We took a short swim, walked around a bit, had some fresh coconut.. the kids kept running up to use like local salesmen, asking what we needed, if we wanted to buy any more coconut, seashells, drinks.. It was sweet, but man, they were hustling. A bit too much. So we busted out the Frisbee, and played an intense game of ultimate Frisbee on the beach (modified of course, since none of us know the exact rules.. I was trying my hardest to channel my brother’s UF superpowers). It was about 5 of us adults and 25 kids. Sooo much fun. Intense. Sandy. Rowdy. Energetic. And the most exercise I’ve had in 3 months, easily.
Borrower Verification: This was the biggest project on my workplan, and the most fulfilling. Similar to an audit, this project involved visiting a random sample of 10 borrowers and interviewing them, verifying their loan details with the MFI’s management information system and Kiva’s records. I think the most rewarding part of my fellowship has been any opportunity to meet and speak with clients.
Most awesome/economical mode of transportation:
Poda Poda: A taxi-bus that resembles a minivan? 1,000 leones (less than $0.25) each way, blaring music, 4-5 packed in each row of seats? Sign me up! These are difficult to squeeze into (you always have to watch your bag and usually chase on down and beat the other passengers in for a seat), but it’s entertaining, and most economical means of transport in SL. I’ve mostly taken these with Mbalu, but earliest this week, took one myself. Or at least I think it was a poda-poda.
Most idiotic decision:
Not stocking up on water: I have finally caught on and learned to stock up on water daily. But in the beginning, I found myself waterless on some nights, borrowing water from my roommate and restocking his supply the next. You can purchase drinking water in bundles of small plastic bags (factory-packaged so it’s legit), about 20 for 3,000 leons ($0.75) or a large bottle of water for the same price. They sell it everywhere, the most challenging part of buying a large supply is of course transport (how much you can carry on foot). However, if it’s the rare case that someone’s driving to the grocery store and offers a ride, it’s water bundles FTW.
Runner up: Not wearing a helmet while riding okada. I know, totally crazy and idiotic, this should be number one. But when it’s about to downpour, and you can’t find an okada with a helmet, and you’re just down the hill from home and on a safe, well-paved road, you just got to. I am looking into buying a helmet, though. Other alternatives = walking or taking taxi. The latter is difficult, since drivers will usually charge you 15,000 for a short ride somewhere in the city where commercial taxis (the ones that function like buses) won’t go. The Guju in me resists to paying that much. And the former is fine in daytime, although I start sweating through my clothes after 5 minutes. And one time on the walk back from work, I think an old woman tried to mug me. It was weird.
Most awesome song:
Chop my money – By Nigerian duo P-squared. It’s paying as I write this. It plays at work, when I sleep, in the taxi, everywhere! Here’s the youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZslcTuKYeDk
The lyrics are a bit strange (I think the dudes singing it are saying.. they’re so rich, they just need a girl to spend their money because they’re OK with it and they don’t care), but it’s super addictive.
Most difficult work project:
The Borrower Verification: This project has been as difficult as it’s been fulfilling. Getting data from each branch, making appointments with generous credit officers (everything is phone-based since they don’t use email – no internet in branch offices). Aggregating all the data, following up on discrepancies, sending it to our directors, receiving feedback, and researching again. It’s all fascinating, but no easy walk in the park.
Runner up: Writing posts on the Kiva Fellows blog. It’s hard enough writing on a personal blog, so knowing that hundreds of folks who support Kiva are reading my blog, learning about my experiences, maybe even judging my statements makes me crazy nervous. Also, planning next steps. We do a lot, I’ve discovered, on an ad-hoc basis. This has done wonders for my OCD and obsession with doing this according to plan.
Most beautiful beach:
River No. 2, but it’s really a hard decision. The standards of beach-beauty is really high here. Someone told me the “crappiest” beach is near Goderich, which I’ve only driven by. But um, this beach would probably put Stinson beach to shame. It’s stunning, but clearly, the other beaches here are picturesque and look like paradise, so it’s a difficult comparison.
Most fascinating/shocking aspects of SL life:
Everything. The kindness of the people, the high cost of living, the heavy dependency on aid, the stories of war, the amount of unemployment, the lack of agriculture, the political system. First, with aid – there is a ridiculous amount of aid that comes into SL, and though it is making positive change here, I can’t tell whether it’s helping people make strides forward. I have a total outsider’s perspective here, and in the 2 months I’ve been here, what can I tell about change, but there is a very high dependency on imports. Fruits/veggies, chickens, eggs, meat, are mostly imported from European countries and neighboring West African countries, like Guinea, and second-hand items – items like clothes and shoes donated from the states, are available for people to purchase (it’s a very popular business venture for entrepreneurs who take loans: buying second-hand items to resell).
Cost of living: The average per capita income in around $909/year, taxi rides (one-way) are around $0.25, water to last 4-5 days is $1, bananas are $1.00 per pound, peanut butter is $6, 16 oz of frozen spinach is $8, movie theater tickets are $5 each, a Star beer around $2, a small pizza around $12. Ok – not the most comprehensive sample of data, but you can probably see the inconsistency here. Additionally, rent for nicer apartments (usually rented by expats) starts at $1,000. It’s difficult to find anything nice below $1300 (nice = guards, gate, electricity and generator, hot water). I majorly lucked out because I lived with a local the first month, then moved in with an expat who lets me pay $500 + utilities, but man, this place is super expensive, especially when earning leones.
War also carries deep wounds everywhere in the country – from the people’s homes to the provinces. Various coworkers told me about their experiences escaping to neighboring countries with their families, hiding in the basement of their home, seeing their house burned to the ground and town destroyed, parents killed.. it’s insane how much the people of Sierra Leone suffered in a decade-long civil war, and manage to keep a very positive, and friendly demeanor every day. I haven’t seen this degree of kindness anywhere, and it speaks volumes knowing how much this country suffered not too long ago.
Additionally, after the war ended and the land was uprooted and destroyed, people fled to Freetown, where there was some existence of running water, electricity, and a growing city life with restaurants, nightclubs, tourism, and expats. Thus, Freetown is filled with many people that hail from the provinces, who are looking for better opportunity in the city. There is, however, a major unemployment problem among the youth, and the influx of SL population in Freetown has led to strained resources, higher unemployment, and less development in the provinces. What I’d love to do is visit the provinces and see firsthand why agriculture isn’t being developed: what the major barriers are, what is being done here, where the government’s spending is. I am just an outsider, but feel that promoting agriculture in the provinces has major potential to create jobs, sustainability, and grow the economy… bring people back to their homes in the provinces, help them rebuild their lives, reestablish roots, create strong roads, create industry, establish families businesses.. But again, this is my idealist, novice perspective. I haven’t been to the provinces, just have spoken with many locals who are part of both populations. (Peep this interesting report: http://www.unhcr.org/refworld/publisher,UNPRESS,,SLE,4c9c63fd1a,0.html)”
There are 2 major political parties here, the APC (All People’s Congress) and the SLPP (Sierra Leone People’s Party). Although there are several others, these 2 dominate the political landscape in SL. Everyone’s buzzing with excitement about the 2012 elections, and campaigning is in full swing. I’ve had a few conversations with colleagues about political platforms, candidates, propositions, etc. to gauge how people select who to vote for and their stance on political agenda. To my surprise, candidates are favored not by their political background, beliefs, promises, or proposed changes. Rather, they are favored based on where they are from (geographically) in Sierra Leone, and how that aligns with voters. So the poll results, I’ve learned from a few discussions with colleagues and business owners, are determined by: (1) where the candidate is from, (2) where the candidate’s party has heavily dominated/campaigned (so which villages/provinces they have heavily visited in the past and convinced to mark as that party’s territory), and (3) the amount of people who can vote in each of these provinces. The current president, Ernest Bai Koroma, is part of the APC, so there is current a big push from the opposition part, SLPP. The majority of folks I’ve spoken with, though, side with the APC and plan to vote for APC once again.
Sorry – I realize this is the longest sub-post ever, and not super factual. But I hope it gives you a glimpse into the interesting social-economic-political landscape in SL.
Most valuable gift (that keeps giving)
Keychain flashlight – “No Dad, really,” I recall saying while sitting on my last suitcase, struggling to zip it shut, “I’m not going to need that.” Pause. “Ok fine, I’ll put it in my carry on.” This keychain flashlight has saved me many a time: nights where the power cuts, and I need to run to the bathroom, or walk to my house in the dark on the tumultuous dirt road, or find money in my purse while riding in a taxi. This thing has saved me. I never part with it. Thanks Dad for convincing me to take this little miracle gadget!
USB modem: A friend gave me a usb modem to use during my time here, and it has been a LIFESAVER. At first, the one I was using was super slow (12kpbs, whaat) and I could barely manage to post photos on skype. But this newer version has allowed me to post pictures, write emails, skype call with my family and friends. Such a gift. High-speed internet here is close to non-existent, so I’m very thankful to have this wonderful piece of technology by my side. There’s no better way to fight homesickness than video chatting with your family.
Most hilarious moment:
Gosh. So many. One notable “ahh, Africa!” moment was on the way to Tokeh beach. We took 2 cars, both SUVs, and were going through deep puddles and potholes. As we laughed through the bumpy ride, we heard a coughing from the engine, and the car went silent. “Oh, shit.” There we were, in the world’s largest puddle (or world’s smallest lake), engine stalled. “What happened?” our friends in the car behind us yelled. Turns out that the water crept into the engine. We spent 30 minutes trying to figure out the problem ourselves, taking pictures, waiting for cars to stop at offer help, and then decided screw it: we need to push this water out of the car, and tow it. Another car gave us their tow rope and contact information, so 3 of our friends pushed the car out of the water, we connected to tow rope, and dragged the stalled car about 20 minutes to the next village, where a mechanic took a good look. He eventually found that the problem wasn’t the engine, but in fact, was the fuse, and we all had a good laugh and long photoshoot in the village. The car was fine the rest of the way home, but to this day, remains the most hilarious afternoon I’ve had here.
Anyway, please continue to send wonderful questions my way. Thanks for reading!